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Eight suggestions for injection mold maintenance at the end of the year
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The annual maintenance program required for each injection molding location depends on the mold cycle. The following are some general principles that every mold user can use to ensure the efficient operation of mold components such as hot runner, heater, guide post and thimble in case of unexpected situations.
1. Check the vent for warning signs of rust or moisture -- If you find rust or moisture near the vent of the hot runner, it means internal condensation or a possible pipe break. Moisture can cause a fatal short circuit to the heater. If the machine is shut down at night or on weekends rather than running all year round, the chance of such condensation increases.
2. Remind the operator not to "clean" the hot nozzle off the sprue -- if the operator happens to see a small piece of stainless steel on the mold sprue, it may actually be a sprue assembly. "Clearing" this seeming obstacle often destroys hot talk. In order not to destroy the hot nozzle, please confirm the nozzle type of the hot runner system before taking action to ensure that all operators are trained and able to identify all the different nozzle types they are dealing with.
3. Coasting stop - This should be done once a week for machines that run year-round. The end of the year is a good time to give these parts a routine lubrication.
4. Cross-check the resistance of the heater - You should have measured the resistance of the heater when you first started using it, now is the time to measure it again and compare. If the resistance value fluctuates by 10%, consider replacing the heater to ensure that it does not fail at a critical point in the production process. If you have never measured the initial resistance value, do so now and use the resulting value as a reference for future inspections of the heater.
5. Check the guide post and guide sleeve for signs of wear -- look for scratches? p or rub? p and other marks, this wear is due to the lack of lubrication of the relationship. If the marks are new, you can extend the life of the guide post and sleeve by adding more lubrication. If the wear and tear is severe, it is time to replace the parts. Otherwise, the cavity and the core part may not fit well, resulting in different parts of the cavity wall thickness.
6. Check the water flow - Connect a hose at the outlet of the waterway and let the water flow through the pipe to the bucket. If the water flowing out is not clear or colored, there may be rust, and the water flow is not smooth, which means there is a blockage somewhere. If you find any problems, drill all the pipes again to keep them clear (or clean them up by whatever method you use most often). Improving the plants water treatment system could prevent future problems caused by rust and blockage.
7. Clean the thimble - Over the course of a year, the thimble can become dirty due to gas buildup and membranous impurities. A good cleaning with a mold cleaner is recommended every six to twelve months. After cleaning, apply a layer of lubricant to the thimble to prevent chafing or breaking.
8. Check the radius area of the hot nozzle to see if there is a fracture - the fracture is caused by the holding force from the plastic cylinder assembly when the loose hardened plastic debris remaining in the hot mouth of the machine is injected forward. The problem could also be caused by misalignment of the center line. Both possibilities should be considered when finding a fracture. If the damage is so severe that a petal-shaped leak (a term formerly used by mold users to refer to a plastic leak between the guide sleeve and the hot nozzle of the machine) cannot be prevented, the gate sleeve should be replaced.
Adopting these tips will help you detect and prevent potential problems and ensure that your molds are always operating at their best.
1. Check the vent for warning signs of rust or moisture -- If you find rust or moisture near the vent of the hot runner, it means internal condensation or a possible pipe break. Moisture can cause a fatal short circuit to the heater. If the machine is shut down at night or on weekends rather than running all year round, the chance of such condensation increases.
2. Remind the operator not to "clean" the hot nozzle off the sprue -- if the operator happens to see a small piece of stainless steel on the mold sprue, it may actually be a sprue assembly. "Clearing" this seeming obstacle often destroys hot talk. In order not to destroy the hot nozzle, please confirm the nozzle type of the hot runner system before taking action to ensure that all operators are trained and able to identify all the different nozzle types they are dealing with.
3. Coasting stop - This should be done once a week for machines that run year-round. The end of the year is a good time to give these parts a routine lubrication.
4. Cross-check the resistance of the heater - You should have measured the resistance of the heater when you first started using it, now is the time to measure it again and compare. If the resistance value fluctuates by 10%, consider replacing the heater to ensure that it does not fail at a critical point in the production process. If you have never measured the initial resistance value, do so now and use the resulting value as a reference for future inspections of the heater.
5. Check the guide post and guide sleeve for signs of wear -- look for scratches? p or rub? p and other marks, this wear is due to the lack of lubrication of the relationship. If the marks are new, you can extend the life of the guide post and sleeve by adding more lubrication. If the wear and tear is severe, it is time to replace the parts. Otherwise, the cavity and the core part may not fit well, resulting in different parts of the cavity wall thickness.
6. Check the water flow - Connect a hose at the outlet of the waterway and let the water flow through the pipe to the bucket. If the water flowing out is not clear or colored, there may be rust, and the water flow is not smooth, which means there is a blockage somewhere. If you find any problems, drill all the pipes again to keep them clear (or clean them up by whatever method you use most often). Improving the plants water treatment system could prevent future problems caused by rust and blockage.
7. Clean the thimble - Over the course of a year, the thimble can become dirty due to gas buildup and membranous impurities. A good cleaning with a mold cleaner is recommended every six to twelve months. After cleaning, apply a layer of lubricant to the thimble to prevent chafing or breaking.
8. Check the radius area of the hot nozzle to see if there is a fracture - the fracture is caused by the holding force from the plastic cylinder assembly when the loose hardened plastic debris remaining in the hot mouth of the machine is injected forward. The problem could also be caused by misalignment of the center line. Both possibilities should be considered when finding a fracture. If the damage is so severe that a petal-shaped leak (a term formerly used by mold users to refer to a plastic leak between the guide sleeve and the hot nozzle of the machine) cannot be prevented, the gate sleeve should be replaced.
Adopting these tips will help you detect and prevent potential problems and ensure that your molds are always operating at their best.
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